Bongiorno

There are some things in life you just cannot fake – the ability to fly a plane, juggle chainsaws, turn a cartwheel. You might add crafting authentic Italian fare to that list. That’s something that Giuseppe “Joe” Magnolia has been doing for more than two decades at his Crestline eatery, Bongiorno.

I recently sat down with Magnolia and his chef de cuisine, Ernie Tate, in between the lunch shift and the dinner rush. From a seat at the front of the 16-table restaurant behind a large spotless plate-glass window, we could watch the world walk by. Magnolia and Tate took turns waving to friendly passers who called out well wishes and compliments on a recent meal — the kind of rapport only developed after 25 years in one location.

Giuseppe Magnolia moved to the U.S. from Palermo, Sicily in the 1970s. He turned out some of his old-country Italian favorites in New York City before moving to Birmingham in 1977 in search of a warmer climate.  Magnolia’s first restaurant venture was Roma in Roebuck.

“We had barbecue up front and a pizza oven in the back.”

He later moved Restaurant Roma to Pickwick Place in Southside, where they continued to serve southern Italian specialties like Insalata Caprese, Baked Manicotti and Spaghetti Carbonara. A restaurant patron and friend had a hair salon in nearby Crestline and bemoaned the fact that there were no good places to eat, and soon an opportunity arose for them to move there.

Magnolia brought his classic favorites and added several seasonal specialties to Bongiorno on Church Street. Autumn sees the arrival of darker leafy greens like kale, which can be added to stews. Squashes are roasted and served in raviolis or turned into silky soups. When the weather turns colder, the menu will feature items like a Smoked Prime. The dining room comes alive with holiday parties as old friends catch up and new friends share an order of calamari or a bottle of Italian wine.

 Magnolia and Tate take great pride in the quality of all the food – especially the seafood – they offer customers.  Magnolia makes regular visits to the seafood vendor to see what is fresh.

“I don’t wait for the truck to come to me. I want to go see what is the best they have and pick from that. Whether it is fish or tomatoes, I want to select my own for my customers,” he said.

This attention to detail comes through in entrees like the Nut-Crusted Snapper or Glazed Salmon.

“I buy as many organic items as possible, and we make almost everything from scratch here.”

Tate likes to infuse balsamic vinegar with whatever fruits are in season. He boils down the mixture until it resembles syrup, each drop brimming with the flavor of the wine and the fruit.

“I made a stone-fruit balsamic this fall that was great. I added some to a lamb dish, with a ruby port jus that our customers loved,” Tate said.

Bongiorno is famous for its pizzas that boast a crisp yet slightly chewy crust. Magnolia says he orders the Molino 00 flour straight from Italy, which makes all the difference.

Another specialty of the house is the Fettuccine alla Campagnola, which features a sausage made by Magnolia in-house with signature Italian spice fennel. This sausage is tossed with fettuccine pasta, tomatoes, Kalamata olives, shallots and basil, then topped with a grating of roasted goat cheese.

The décor of Bongiorno is soothing – cream-colored walls feature framed Italian scenes and photographs of the family. One particular wall, near the hostess stand, is reminiscent of an entire family album. It reflects the lifeblood of this restaurant, which is truly a family affair. Son Peter and daughters Abigail, Moniea and Maria all play a role in the daily success of Bongiorno. Sons-in-law Augustino and Oswaldo are also actively involved.  When asked if he plans to retire any time soon and let the next generation take over the reins, Magnolia’s eyes just sparkle and he replies, “Everything I love is here. Why do anything else?”

Christiana Roussel lives in Crestline and enjoys all things food-related. Follow her culinary musings on line at ChristianasKitchen.com or on Facebook or @Christiana40.